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 We create custom inlay artwork and perform precision inlay repairs that turn fingerboards and headstocks into stunning visual showcases. Whether you want to restore cracked, lifting mother-of-pearl markers on a vintage instrument or design a completely bespoke, intricate design from scratch, we work with premium materials like abalone, exotic woods, and precious metals. Using specialized micro-tools, we rout precise cavities and fit each piece flush into the wood for a seamless, buttery-smooth feel under your fingers. Our meticulous craftsmanship restores the structural integrity of damaged boards while adding a striking, personalized touch that elevates your instrument into a true work of art 

 Fixing cracks in guitar tops is a delicate, specialized process that completely restores both structural integrity and resonant acoustic tone. Because a guitar's soundboard is under immense string tension, an open split can quickly grow, causing buzzing and killing volume. The repair begins by humidifying the instrument back to its optimal state, which naturally coaxes the separated wood grain to close up tightly. Next, specialized hot hide glue or high-grade aliphatic resin is carefully worked deep into the fissure. For long-term durability, thin, grain-matched spruce cleats are crafted, contoured, and glued directly across the inside of the crack using powerful internal magnetic clamps. Finally, the top is leveled and the finish is meticulously touched up to make the seam nearly invisible, saving a damaged instrument and ensuring it sings beautifully for decades. 

Fixing finish damage is a highly specialized craft that blends structural chemistry with fine artistry to erase scars and protect your instrument's wood. Whether your guitar has a deep buckle-rash scratch, a sharp edge ding, or extensive lacquer checking, the repair process is carefully tailored to the instrument's original finish type—typically traditional nitrocellulose lacquer, modern polyurethane.

For nitrocellulose finishes, we use a technique called "drop-filling". Because fresh nitro chemically melts and fuses into old nitro, we can carefully build up the damaged area layer by layer with tinted or clear liquid lacquer using micro-pipettes. Once cured, the overfilled mound is block-sanded flush with the surrounding surface using progressively finer grits of wet-or-dry paper. Finally, the area undergoes a multi-stage mechanical buffing process to bring it to a mirror-like high gloss, making the repair virtually invisible to the eye and completely seamless to the touch.